Spices and Maluku - two inseparable things. And so are Ternate-Tidore in world history. Five centuries ago, the two big sultanates in the eastern part of our country emerged onto the stage of world history. They were sought after, and even fought over. The existence of the spice islands - the islandsof Maluku, especially Ternate-Tidore as clove producers, and the Banda Islands as nutmeg producers - motivated people to travel right around the world for the first time.
History records that Christopher Columbus, who discovered the North American continent, made his voyage in
order to find spices, the actual location of which was a mystery to Europeans at that time. The desire to control these premier commodities, whose status then resembled what oil’s is nowadays, was indeed very strong. And Ternate-Tidore were the world’s only producers of clove - the most sought after spice of them all.
Tracing History’s Footsteps
On these two islands, neith
er of which is wider than 12 km, stand several fortresses that witnessed the world’s history unfold. A bit to the north of the palace, in Ter
nate city centre, is Fort Oranje whose construction was completed in around 1607. It was the first centre for the Dutch East Indies government in Nusantara. Not many people know that Ternate was once a Dutch colonial capital. The fortress is relatively big compared to other fortresses in our country.
To the north of the city there is Fort Toloko standing on a hill. This Portuguese built fortress is very well maintained and looks like it has been renovated
. From on top of it, Ternate is in full view, as is the Island of Tidore across the water from it.
Still in the city, but a bit to the south, stands the Kayu Merah Fortress built by the Portuguese in 1510. This fortress with its strong thick walls is the only one remaining on the water’s edge and looks like it is keeping watch over the sea in front of it.
To the west there is another quite small but beautiful fortress called Fort Nostra Senhora do Rosario (Our Lady of the Rosary), or Fort Gamalama as it is commonly referred to as. This fortress was perhaps built by the Portuguese as well. It is now in ruins and not on the seaside anymore but what remains still looks quite stunning.
The Twin Island
Tidore, Ternate’s “twin” island, although separated only by a one kilometre wide strait, turns out to be quiet and peaceful. Crossing the water to Tidore, we are welcomed by a simple but very important inscription which commemorates the arrival of the Trinidad and Victoria on 8 November 1521, having sailed for 2 years, 2 months and 28 days from Seville, on their epic voyage around the world seeking spices. Trinidad then sank on her way home, leaving Victoria to return to Seville as the first ship to have sucessfully sailed the proverbial Seven Seas.
The inscription is signed by the Spanish Ambassador to Indonesia. If, from the story above, it is clear that Ternate is “Portugese”, then Tidore is indeed “Spanish”. Another proof of Tidore’s “Spanishness” is the Tohula Fort above Soa Siu.
A day trip to Tidore from Ternate is possible because it is quite close, just a few minutes in a wooden boat. On this island stands the palace of the Sultanate of Tidore. If Ternate has Baabullah, Tidore has Nuku, her most well known ruler.
If Ternate has Gunung Gamalama, her twin island has Gunung Kiematubu. A stretch of fairly smooth asphalt road will take us to that traditonal villa
ge to see how Tidore’s native people live.
The Scene on the One Thousand Rupiah Banknote
Do you have a one thousand rupiah bank note? Please have a look at what is written there. “Pulau Maitara dan Tidore”, that’s the description there. It is a real depiction of Ternate. Do you want to see for yourself the scene pictured on the banknote? Easy. Go to the south of Ternate. It is not difficult to get there and only about 10 minutes from the city. The view is indeed fantastic.
Apart from being chock full of history, North Maluku is beautiful. The islands there are like miniature volcanoes rising up out of the sea, creating a landscape that might be from a fairy story.
Travelling here will not only bring you back to the golden age of spices but will also give you unforgettable memories. And don’t forget to sample their fresh sea fish with the renowned sambal dabu-dabu or their specialty sago snack.
